Pea Shoots

A fantasticly delicious and versatile (in the kitchen) plant that grows from any and all Peas.

We offer 2 varieties now - the Speckled Peas are the Classic. They produce a tall shoot with leaves. The Yellow Peas grow a shorter shoot with leaves and tendrils. They are also known as Fiji Feathers.

We also sell these same peas for growing sprouts - Speckled Peas, Yellow Peas

. Our Peas comes from sources which are certified organic.

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Growing Basics

Soak

8 - 12 hours

The amount of time your seeds should soak in cool water. Soaking is how we begin the sprouting process in most cases.
Rinse / Drain

2 times per day

How often your seeds should be watered. Rinsing thoroughly and then draining as much water as possible are key components to growing great sprouts.
Plant

Day 2

Approximate time you will plant your crop if growing Grass, Greens, or Micro-Greens, after soaking your seeds. If your seeds do not soak they will get planted right off the bat.
Harvest

10- 14 days

The time it takes to grow a finished Sprout, or other crop (Micro-Greens, Grass, Greens) from a dry Seed. Note: This "finished" Sprout is our preference. you may grow them for as long as you want! In fact, we suggest that you taste them at every rinse to discover when you like them best.

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Growing Instructions
Detailed Instructions
Growing Photos
About
Notes

Print Instructions

Soak 1/4 cup of seed in cool water for 8-12 hours.

Drain off soak water. Never Soak them again.

Rinse thoroughly.

Drain thoroughly.

Rinse and Drain with cool water every 8-12 hours - until your seeds have the tiniest root showing.

Plant on a thoroughly moistened medium.

Cover your crop with another tray or plate, to keep light out and moisture in.

Keep your medium moist by watering lightly as needed. Don't drench!

When your plants have begun to show leaves, remove cover and move your crop to a well lit location.

Harvest when the leaves are open and most of them are green.

Cut just above the medium, with a scissors or sharp knife.

Print Instructions

How much seed you Soak depends on the area you are planting - see here. Yields vary depending on method used, climate and technique, but are roughly 1 pound of Greens per pound of seed planted.

Pre-Sprout

When growing Pea Shoots: You really MUST Pre-Sprout before planting.

Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter. Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water. Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all. Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.

Empty the seeds into your Sprouter (if necessary). Drain off the soak water. You may water plants or use it in stock if you like - it has nutrients in it. Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70°) water then Drain thoroughly. Set your Sprouter anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70° is optimal) between Rinses. This is where your sprouts do their growing. We use a counter top - in the corner of our kitchen, but where the sprouter won't get knocked over by cats, dogs, kids or us. We don't mind the indirect sunlight or the 150 watts of incandescent light, because light just does not matter much. A plant can only perform photosynthesis when it has leaves. Until then light has little if any effect. Sprouts also happen to like air-circulation, so don't hide your sprouts. We'll get to the light later, after planting our Greens.

Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours. And, perhaps one more... Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours. And, conceivably one more... Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.

When most of the seeds have sprouted tiny (1/8-1/4 inch) roots, or even better, when they are just showing the hint of a root, it is time to plant. This is typically after just 2-3 Rinse and Drain cycles.

Planting and Growing

Coconut Coir is our all-time favorite growing medium. It holds moisture better than any medium we've ever worked with. It releases nutrients as the plants grow. It's less messy than soil - though it feels like the loveliest, loamiest soil you can imagine. The only trick to Coir is getting the medium properly moist. Saturated is perfect. Puddles is too much. We mix Earthworm castings in. 75% Coir + 25% Castings. We fill our tray ¾ full. We LOVE this mix!

Hemp Felt: Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet, Kelp Fertilizer enriched water (You don't NEED fertilizer, but we use it when we grow without soil.) until thoroughly saturated. Spread the wet pad across the bottom of your tray. Proceed...

Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened medium.
Though some literature will tell you that your seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from years of experience and thousands of pounds of Greens grown that that is bunk! You will learn for yourself that some Greens (like these) produce a plant that takes up less room than the seed, and so, to maximize your yield, your seeds must lay atop each other to some degree. The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or fungal problems in your Greens, lessen the amount of seed you plant. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an issue the mold/fungus is. As always, you need to adapt to your own climate and seasonal conditions. And learn as you go - this is really easy and fun stuff to learn, and what is better than learning?!

Cover the planted tray with an inverted tray (the Cover Tray) - to keep light out and moisture in. Your covering tray should have holes or slits in it to allow air circulation.

Place in a low-light, room temperature location.
70° is always optimal but these Greens will grow very well in cooler or slightly warmer temperatures also.

Water lightly once or twice a day.
The goal is to keep the sprouts moist until their roots bury themselves in the medium - at which point your goal is to keep the medium moist. Spraying the sprouts is best - if you use a sprayer in your sink or a hand sprayer - just try to make sure that every sprout gets rinsed and quenched until they bury their roots.
Hemp Felt: You will have a much tastier crop when you include Kelp Fertilizer.

Once the roots are buried all you need to do is keep the medium moist - the plants will get the moisture they need through their roots.

Use the Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will actually sit in this, so don't go crazy - too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems. Just leave as much water as the Greens can drink in a day and then add more the following day. The amount is dependant on the size of your tray and the climate (humidity especially) you're growing in, so you'll have to learn this for yourself. As an example, if you are using our 1 Crop Tray Set - which is 10 inches x 20 inches - start with 1-2 cups in the Drip Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and 12 hours. If the Drip Tray is dry add more water - if there is still water 24 hours later then cut back the next time you add water. Pretty simple really, basically common sense eh? It is really a time saver and produces happy healthy Greens.

Once again, we do recommend Kelp Fertilizer enriched water for Hemp Felt growers. Coconut Coir growers may use it too of course, but if you are using nitrogen rich Earthworm Castings in your medium, you can easily skip the kelp.

Greening your Greens

Uncover your Greens. After 3-4 days, or when they are about an inch tall, or when they push the covering tray up (they really will do that - it is cool!)

Move your crop to a well lit location. If you use direct sunlight (a very good idea for Greens) be prepared to do more watering. Keep the soil/medium moist by watering the soil/medium daily. Watch them grow.

Harvest

Harvesting your crop is just a matter of cutting the plants when they are about 2-4 inches tall and have green leaves. Cut the plants just above soil or medium's surface.

Refrigerate If you are going to store your crop; during the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface moisture of your Greens - they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch. So when you water - try to keep the water off the plants - just water the soil/medium, like we said above.

Transfer your crop to a plastic bag - or better yet try our some Produce Storage Bag (they actually extend the shelf life of produce - we use them in our house). Whatever sealed container you choose - put them in your refrigerator.

Dry Seed to start with * If using Sproutpeople's Single Harvest Pack, use the whole bag on our 5 inch tray (or similar).

Or Use:

1/4-1/3 cup for a 5" square Tray.
1-1 1/2 cup for an 10" square Tray.
2-3 Cups for an 10 inch x 20 inch Tray.

The surest way to know what amount of seed to use: Spread dry seed on the bottom of that in which you will be growing (i.e. your tray) so that the seed is spread evenly but densely.

Once more time: We use a lot of Seeds and though some literature will tell you that your seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from years of experience and thousands of pounds of Greens grown that that is bunk! The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or fungal problems in your Greens then lessen the amount of seed you plant next time. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an issue the mold/fungus is. As always, you need to adapt to your own climate and seasonal conditions. And learn as you go - this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!

Dry Peas await their Soak.

8-12 hours later... Soaked, Rinsed and Drained.

12 hours later... another Rinse/Drain cycle. If you see the roots beginning to emerge, plant now. Or....

12 hours later... another Rinse/Drain cycle.If you chose not to do so 12 hours ago, NOW is the time to Plant.

We planted our barely sprouted (pre-sprouted) Peas atop the thoroughly moistened medium of our choosing, then watered it and covered it. Now - 12 hours later you can see some serious growth.

24 hours later...

Harvest Time!

Grown from virtually any Pea variety, Shoots are the plant above the soil. They produce a robust, tender Shoot in 8 - 14 days (depending on your climate, time of year and for how long you grow them). Really excellent stir-fried quickly with some garlic and soy sauce and (optionally) ginger.

We offer two peas for two different types of Shoot. The classic tall shoot is grown from a Speckled Pea. We grew that one for all the years we grew professionally, and that is the pea we have always sold for Shoots.

The shorter Shoot with Tendrils (aka Fiji Feathers) grows from the Yellow Pea. Take a look at the photos - - the first two are the Classic Shoot, the next two are Fiji Feathers.

Either way you can't go wrong. Eat More shoots!

Note: You can grow shoots from any Pea. They all have different characteristics, so experiment.

The Speckled Peas have always been great producers. The Yellow Peas can be hard to find, so get them when they're available.

Seed Shelf Life: 5 years. Store in cool, dark, dry spot. Store in freezer to extend shelf life.

Planting Density

The more densely you plant the seed the less air circulates around the individual plants. This can cause some fungal growth - we call it “fuzzies”. This is not a problem, except that it is unattractive. Some crops will have mold or rot issues. That is a problem. If you get brown pockets at the soil level, where the plants just die, you are probably in need of more air circulation, so plant fewer seeds next time. If you do encounter rot spots like that, scoop them out - if you're growing on a fluffy medium, and try to nurse your crop to completion. In summer we grow our Greens outside (from the point when we uncover the tray) for optimal air circulation.

Planting Medium

We have grown Greens - on soil - in Trays, for almost 2 decades. But, we now have options. We have multiple Soilless Mediums (including Hemp Felt and Vermiculite), and organic liquid Kelp Fertilizer to provide your plants some nutrients to draw upon as they grow. Hemp Felt is a thin organic material that you soak before planting upon. It holds moisture and is the least messy and compact medium we know of. Vermiculite is a mineral which holds moisture supremely, dispenses added nutrients over time and in general acts much like soil. We think you should try all of them if you can - there are differences and though they are minimal you may prefer one method over the other.

Instructions are pretty much the same, regardless of what medium you use, but we have specified differences where they exist. We may be offering other, or different Mediums (products are always coming and going) then when we wrote these instructions, or you might be using one you got somewhere else. Please follow our instructions that refer to Hemp Felt for other thin mediums (i.e. STG Pads). Consider Perlite, Potting Soil or other such fluffy mediums to be the same as Vermiculite, and so follow directions labeled for Vermiculite. There may be some small differences, but they're likely to be minor.

Soil Notes

Virtually any soil will do for Greens. We used sterile composted cow manure for the tens of thousands of Trays we grew during our days as professional growers, but any sterile bagged soil will do, and should be available at any garden center, and be inexpensive (depending on the general cost of living where you are of course). You can use expensive soil if you prefer - we might even be selling some - it is your choice - always. The deal is this - Greens (garden greens anyway) are aided by the presence of the nutrient Nitrogen, in the soil. Nitrogen is the nutrient responsible for plant growth (a very good thing when growing lettuce, spinach, collards or other leafy crops, but too much nitrogen is bad if growing peppers or tomatoes or any plant where the fruit is what we eat). Manures contain varrying amounts of nitrogen depending on the animal that originally produced it. Too much nitrogen will burn plants - almost literally burn them - hence the word HOT is used in reference to nitrogen. The higher the nitrogen content the HOTTER the manure (or fertilizer) is considered. Cow manure is the least hot - it was perfect for our needs - it supplies the growing plants with a little extra boost. Chicken, other bird manures and Bat Guano (another word for manure) are much hotter, and Earthworm castings are hotter still (castings is yet another word for manure). The catch is this: Greens, Grass and Sprouts are theoretically all too young to benefit from nitrogen and other nutrients. It is written that every seed has, within itself, all the nutrients it needs to grow to the cotyledon stage. That's as far as we grow any of our seeds (with the sometimes exception of Micro-Greens). So - though it is contradictory, it is our experience that nitrogen does help Greens in some cases (most obviously when growing Sunflower Greens). Like we always say - EXPERIMENT FOR YOURSELF. Draw your own conclusions. If you are familiar with our rap on Dogma, you'll agree with us when we say; Just because it is written does not mean that it's so. Whatever the reality - a little nitrogen can't hurt. Wouldn't it be fantastic if we could get our teenagers to use the words Guano or Castings instead of %&$# when they get ticked off?;-D

Hydroponic Greens

We do not grow hydroponic Greens. We have tried but have never gotten the yields we get with soil, and the flavor of the crops is nowhere near as fine. They taste watered down. Now that we have a soilless alternatives (Hemp Felt, Vermiculite, etc.) we are even less interested in hydroponic Greens growing. But, if you want to try - go to Val at Go Green/Green Smoothie - she is the queen of home hydroponics. Tell her us Sproutpeople sent you!

Tray Note

Your Planting Tray (the one with the soil or medium in it) MUST have drainage holes or slits! Nothing will grow in a medium that can not drain - that condition is commonly called "flooded". When using Hemp Felt or Vermiculite your Planting Tray must also have drainage, but we do use the Drip Tray to hold some water at times in the growing process. (You'll see the TIP in our instructions, above.)

As I've said time and time again on the site, we hate dogma, so take my dogma with a grain of salt. You can grow in trays without drainage (the amazing people at the Hippocrates Health Institute have long done so), but you do have to be able to drain excess water away. Tipping is a possibility, but we think it risky - especially for the novice grower, hence my dogma.

Re-Growing Your Crop

Greens can produce a 2nd - so you may continue to water after you cut your first crop. The 2nd and crop will not be as tender, and it may have fungal problems, but it is good to try growing a 2nd crop. Decide for yourself if it is worth it! Vermiculite is the best medium, as far as water retention is concerned - which is a very big deal if you want to go for multiple cuttings, but soil enriched with Earthworm Castings is perhaps a better choice as it gives the Greens nutrients to draw upon. Soil enriched with Earthworm Castings and with about 10-20% Vermiculite might be perfect. Funny that never occurred to me before.... Whatever you use, it's worth a try if only for the experience and the knowledge gained.