Arugula Micro-Greens

Perhaps the most popular salad green known to humankind, Arugula is a major ingredient in salad mixes around the world! Now you can have it's mild peppery flavor anytime you want it in the form of a Micro-Green.

WE SELL ARUGULA BY THE 1/2 POUND.

Our Arugula comes from a source which is certified organic.

Rating:
100%
$16.41 / 1/2 lb.
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Print Instructions

Plant 1-2 teaspoons of seed (for a 5x5 inch Tray) on thoroughly moistened medium.

Cover your crop with another tray, or a plate - to keep light out and moisture in.

Keep your medium moist by watering lightly as needed. Don't drench!
Use Coconut Coir and you likely won't have to water at all after planting!

When your plants have begun to show leaves, remove cover and move your crop to a well lit location.

Harvest when the leaves are open and an inch or three tall (day 5-14).

Cut just above the medium, with a scissors or sharp knife.

Print Instructions

Yields approximately three times as many Micro-Greens (by weight) as seed "planted"
We put quotes around Planted because the seeds are spread atop a medium - not planted under.

PLEASE read the contents of Notes Tab (to the right)
for variations and a whole lot more information.

Grow these on the ultimate medium -
Coconut Coir, soil, or a soilless medium like Hemp Felt, in a Compostable Tray - or for bigger crops you can use a Growing Tray, like our Half-Crop Tray Set - or go round with our Stainless Steel Sprouter, or its smaller sibling, our small Stainless Steel Sprouter, or - grow them upon a flat Hemp Bag, or in our gorgeous Euro-Sprouter.

I know - too many choices. That's our biggest problem here at Sproutpeople. Choices!
So I'm going to tell you the way I (who have every possible option available) grow Micros.
I always use Coconut Coir!
I mix Earthworm Castings into my Coconut Coir for added nitrogen (which is very good for green plant growth), at a rate of 25% Castings to 75% Coconut Coir.
I grow in our Stainless Steel Sprouter, or its smaller sibling, our small Stainless Steel Sprouter - though I do still like to grow in Trays, like we did when we were professional growers. When I do, I use our Half-Crop Tray Set - because it fits in our (small) kitchen. It's 10x10 inches. Whether I'm growing Cotyledons (my general preference) or going for True Leaves - all these Trays are 2 inches deep. That's the way I grow. I like a deep medium.

Planting

Thoroughly moisten the Medium upon which you are going to grow.

Measure your seed
For a thick crop of Cotyledon (first leaf) Micro-Greens plant the larger amount. For bigger, True Leaf Micros plant the smaller amount.
Stainless Steel Sprouter = 1 - 2 Tbs.
small Stainless Steel Sprouter = 1/2 - 1 Tbs.
Compostable Tray = 1 tsp. - 2 tsp.
5x5 Tray = 1 tsp. - 2 tsp.
10x10 Tray = 1 - 2 Tbs.
10x20 Tray = 2 - 4 Tbs.
Hemp Bag = 2 - 4 tsp.
Euro-Sprouter = 1 - 2 tsp.
If you are going for True Leaves you really must use a Growing Tray that is at least 2 inches deep, and plant on Coir with Castings.

Spread seeds as evenly as you can - all over your thoroughly moistened Medium.

If your growing on a pad, like our Hemp Felt, mist the seeds with a Spray Bottle to provide them more water to soak up.

Cover your crop: If you're planting in a 5x5 Tray use another identical tray - up side down. Same thing with other Trays. If using a Compostable Tray snap the clear lid on for the first 2-3 days. If using a Hemp Bag, or another medium - be creative. If it's on a plate then use an identical plate (upside down) as a cover. For the Euro-Sprouter - use the cover that comes with it. It is not mandatory when growing Micro-Greens to cover them at all. Experiment for yourself and see what works best in your climate/location. I covered everything for 27 years- but I now have questions thanks to growing in our Stainless Steel Sprouter - about whether covering helps every crop. It doesn't hurt - I KNOW that, but - well - watch this movie if you care about this fine point, otherwise grow on...

Place your Micro-Garden in a low-light, room temperature location (70° is optimal).

If your growing on Hemp Felt, mist the seeds with a Spray Bottle once or twice a day, until the roots bury themselves in the hemp.
If growing on Coconut Coir - your seeds will get all they need from the Coir, but mist once a day if it pleases you to do so.

Growing and Greening

You are working with mucilaginous seeds. Every seed will take up water from the thoroughly moistened medium and will surround itself with a gel sack. That sack has all the water the seed needs to germinate. You won't need to water again until germination begins.

Once germination occurs - keep the medium moist by watering gently or misting with a Spray Bottle every day or three. The deal with watering is that the deeper your medium, the less you need to water, and the plants won't require a lot of water until they get growing big - at which point you may need to drench the medium every day. When using our Compostable Tray (which has no drainage) you can pour off excess water by tipping it.

Note: These wonderful little Brassica plants have a unique root structure. Brassicas will show microscopic roots starting on day 2 or 3. They are called root hairs and are most visible just before watering - when the plants are at their driest. These root hairs impress many people as mold - but they are not. When you water your crop the root hairs collapse back against the tap root. Viola! No root hairs! Now you know. Isn't learning fun?!

When your plants grow up and begin to shed their hulls they are ready for light so move them (if necessary) to a well lighted location. If you go with sunlight - water more frequently. Room light will usually do quite nicely - and will not dry out your medium as quickly. One consideration here - if you are going for True Leaves you should definitely use sunlight in a warm place.
The most beautiful Micro-Greens we have ever seen were grown in a greenhouse in Burlington, Vermont (in summer) by our friends Spencer and Mara at Half-Pint Farm. Just had to mention that. They taught me and Lori a lot!

Keep the medium moist by watering regularly. Water from the side if possible to prevent injuring the tiny plants.

When your plants have open leaves which are green, they are done - unless you're going for True Leaves, in which case you need to keep watering and tending for another week or more.

Harvest

Cut the plants just above the medium upon which they have grown. During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface moisture of your plants - they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch. So if you water try to keep the water off the plants - just water the medium.

When you are ready to store them (I'll remind you that these degrade fairly quickly, so eat them instead of storing them if you can), if they are still damp - lay them between some paper towels or anything you prefer, and dry them very gently. Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is good. We sell an amazing Produce Storage Bag that actually extends the shelf life of produce, if you're interested in the best of the best =;-) Whatever you store them in; put them in your refrigerator - if you must.

Great Job Sprout farmer!

Arugula spread atop the thoroughly moistened medium of our choosing - Baby Blanket in this instance.

24 - 48 hours later... Arugula is pretty fast to germinate.

24 hours later....

24 hours later....

24 hours later....

24 hours later....

24 hours later....

24 hours later....

24 hours later... Harvest now - or go over the Notes Section (just below the Sprouting instructions) and take your education, and your Arugula, further, beyond the cotyledon stage.

This mildly spicy Brassica (the same family as Broccoli, Cabbage, Mustard, Radish...) has one of the greatest flavors on earth! Arugula is a very fast grower which must Not be soaked (when grown alone) because it is mucilaginous. Just sprinkle some seeds on moist soil or a thoroughly moistened Hemp Bag or other medium, or our small but very attractive Micro-Greens device; the Compostable Tray and watch your crop grow - in just 5-7 days - into the tastiest green food you've ever experienced. Once you have enjoyed Arugula you won't be able to imagine life without it! The secret ingredient in our French Garden Mix, Arugula was not available as an organic crop back in 1994. Working for years with our dear farmer friends Mark + Ila we have established it as a standard certified organic crop which has been added by many a wise sprout grower to their ingredient list. Arugula along with Cress (which has exactly the same organic history), Onion and Garlic Chive are without a doubt the most essential flavor additions to any sprout kitchen, but to us Arugula is the most essential and unique! Canadian researchers have discovered that the antioxidant content of sprouted Arugula is 2nd only to Broccoli among Brassicas! FYI - when mucilaginous seeds are mixed with non-mucilaginous seeds in the proper proportions (our secret) they can be sprouted using traditional sprouting methods - as in French Garden.

Our current seed is absolutely marvelous! Very high germination rate leads to very quick Micros.

Seed Shelf Life: 5 years. Store in cool, dark, dry spot. Store in freezer to extend shelf life.


Sproutpeople and Micro-Greens

We first grew Micro-Greens back in 1994. We were way ahead of the curve. Nobody was interested in them - not our farmers market customers, not our food stores (co-ops, natural food stores and grocery stores we delivered to every week), not our restaurants, nobody! That did change some as the years passed, but we were always Sprout People first. Frankly, we prefer Sprouts to Micros because we find them plumper and more texturally pleasing -  but we keep working with them.  Some seeds (especially mucilaginous seeds)  won't grow as sprouts and Micro-Greens are SO gorgeous and offer a lot of unique and really cool possibilities.

Soaking and Pre-Sprouting

Though our instructions (in the Growing Instructions Tab - to the left) used to suggest these steps (for non-mucilaginous seeds), we have found them less and less necessary as we've worked with Micro-Greens. We skip both now, concentrating first on thoroughly moistening our medium.  We then plant the seeds (which are just spread atop that thoroughly moistened medium),  and mist them with a Spray Bottle, when appropriate.  We then cover our planted seeds.  We mist them with a Spray Bottle at least once a day until they sprout, and then bury their roots  in the medium.  During those first 2-3 days we are misting heavily for some - - not at all for others. We uncover the crops at different stages, depending on what we are doing with a particular crop.  Keep reading to learn more.

Fertilizing Micro-Greens

When growing on a soilless medium like Hemp Felt - it is advisable to use Liquid Kelp Feritlizer to give your plants  additional nutrients to draw upon.  When we use Kelp we dilute 1 tsp. in 1 quart of water (this is a higher concentration than the product label calls for).  We use it in a Spray Bottle or by watering the medium directly.  We use it every time we water.  The perfect container for these soilless mediums is our inexpensive Compostable Tray. If you plant on soil - or better yet with Coconut Coir (our FAVorite), mix in 25% Earthworm Castings  for the ultimate nutrient rich, moisture retaining planting medium.  Mix them together thoroughly before moistening.

Micro-Green Variations

There are varying opinions of what constitutes a Micro-Green.  Traditionally it is just a plant grown to the Cotyledon (first leaf) stage, and cut above the medium upon which it is planted. When we grow to this stage; we either grow on Hemp Felt, soil (any kind will do) , or our favorite -  Coconut Coir.  Hemp Felt is less messy and works fine and dandy.  We cut a piece to fit a  plate, then  we follow our own instructions for keeping the medium and seeds-sprouts thoroughly moist.  We use another of the same size plate - inverted - as a cover.  We uncover our plants when they are about 1/2 inch tall, or when they are hitting the covering plate.   We then expose them to all the light our kitchen has to offer.  We even use direct sunlight when available.  We have to water them more often when we do this.  When it comes to watering, We mist them with a Spray Bottle until the seeds have firmly rooted.  After that -  when growing on a piece of  Hemp Felt on a plate; pour water directly onto the plate.  We gently tip and turn the plate so as much water as possible gets soaked up by the Hemp Felt, and then pour off most of the excess. When growing on soil or  Coconut Coir; we continue to spray with the Spray Bottle, but we keep the medium moist by adding water directly to the plate or solid tray it is sitting on/in.   We allow the medium to drink up what water it can, and then gently pour off the excess.  Leaving a little water on the plate is fine - it will get sucked up before your next watering.  If it doesn't, cut back a bit next time.

There are some nowadays who want a Micro-Green to be a plant which puts out a True Leaf before they'll call it a Micro-Green.   We find that concept Very interesting, so we have worked to make that happen.

True Leaves

The first thing is to plant less seed.  Just how much is the question.  The general rule is this: The more space your plant has to grow roots - the bigger it can grow. We are currently using 1/4 teaspoon in a 5x5 inch tray.  That leaves quite a bit of room between the seeds-plants, but gives them enough space to grow to the True Leaf stage.  This can take 2 weeks or more.   The main thing that is needed is More Light.  Plants get "leggy" when they need to reach for light.  We use that to our advantage in all other circumstances in the Sprout World, but here we want to minimize the legginess of the plants.  If you can put a light right above your crop -  or keep it in direct sunlight, that will help.  Keep everything adequately moist. Remember - the more light the faster the medium and plants will dry.  This may sound like a lot more work, but really it isn't much more than usual. We cover the seeds only until they have sprouted when growing this way.  We plant on Coconut Coir (which hold moisture like nothing else we've ever worked with)  enriched with 25% Earthworm Castings, which add nitrogen that a plant uses to grow leaves.  When making up the mix,  do not exceed 25% Earthworm Castings as too much nitrogen can burn your plants (they actually whither and die when the soil is too "hot" - which means it has too much nitrogen).   Mix the castings into the base  Coconut Coir, or soil (any kind will work, though we do not advise mixes that are heavily peat moss as we find it hard to work with and we don't find the crop turns out as well) - it is the roots that will need access to the rich medium. If growing a mix, not all of the plants will grow True Leaves at the same time.  Keep growing until most have them.  Harvest then and eat them up.  Though you can store Micro-Greens,  they degrade quickly, and since you have put so much work in these - you should enjoy them at their peak.

The Next Variation

The next obvious step (to us anyway) we find really exciting.  It is to grow even fewer seeds into even fewer plants.  Those plants will grow more leaves.  They will be more like Baby-Greens than Micro-Greens.  They will require more time. They may re-grow more quickly because they'll have a bigger root-mass. The container (tray, pot, etc.) they grow in will likely be too small for that root-mass to live long, but it's possible.  When it comes right down to it, we're talking about an indoor-garden.  All the other stuff we offer is about indoor gardening, but this is more like a garden.  Not many of us have space in our homes to Garden inside, but we love the idea.  We're working on this, and we'll tell you what we find out as soon as we know something.  It was gardening that eventually led us to sprouting.  We feel like this is closing that circle started so long ago - now it is sprouting leading back to gardening @:-)  Start with Coconut Coir enriched with Earthworm Castings and you'll have a  great experience.  Happy Micro-Greening!

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